New saltwater tanks fail from missing basics, not rare gear. A clear equipment priority list saves money and livestock. Use this order to build stability first.
Priority 1: Stability and life support
Start with a reliable tank, stand, and sump plan. Bigger water volume buffers mistakes. A 40–75 gallon system is easier than a 10 gallon nano. Choose a tight-fitting lid if you keep jumpers.
Temperature control is non-negotiable. Use a quality heater sized at 3–5 watts per gallon. Add a temperature controller for redundancy. Aim for 77–79°F with swings under 1°F daily.
Salt mixing and top-off come next. Use an RO/DI unit and store water in food-safe bins. Keep salinity at 1.025–1.026 specific gravity. Use an ATO to prevent daily evaporation swings.
Flow and oxygen keep fish alive during rough days. Target 20–40x turnover for mixed reefs. Point powerheads to break the surface. Dead spots raise detritus and nitrate over time.
- Buy a refractometer and calibrate with 35 ppt fluid monthly.
- Use two smaller heaters instead of one large heater.
- Keep a battery air pump for outages and transport.
For setup steps, review our cycling guide. It helps you avoid early ammonia spikes.
Priority 2: Filtration, nutrient control, and testing
Biological filtration is your main filter. Use 0.8–1.5 pounds of live rock per gallon, or equivalent media. Seed with a trusted bacteria source. Give it time before adding fish.
A protein skimmer is a strong second purchase for most tanks. It removes organics before they break down. Size it for 1.5–2x your system volume. Expect a break-in period of one to two weeks.
Mechanical filtration should be simple and consistent. Use filter socks or a roller mat. Change socks every 2–3 days. Dirty socks become nitrate factories fast.
Testing tools prevent guessing. Start with ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate. Add alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium for reefs. Typical targets are nitrate 2–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm.
- Track results in a notebook with dates and water change volume.
- Rinse frozen foods to cut phosphate input.
- Clean skimmer neck weekly for steady performance.
Common mistake: chasing “zero nutrients” with too much media. Corals often pale out. If algae blooms, reduce feeding by 20% and increase export slowly. Our nutrient control basics article can help.
Priority 3: Lighting, dosing, and smart upgrades
Lighting depends on your livestock plan. Fish-only tanks can use simple LEDs. Soft coral tanks need moderate PAR and broad spectrum. SPS tanks need higher PAR and stable photoperiods.
Set a consistent schedule before buying more lights. Run 8–10 hours of full intensity. Use a 1–2 hour ramp if available. Too much light causes algae and stressed corals.
Dosing is an upgrade, not a first step. Start with water changes and regular testing. If alkalinity drops more than 0.3 dKH per day, consider dosing. Typical reef targets are alkalinity 8–9 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, and magnesium 1250–1400 ppm.
Automation should reduce risk, not add it. ATO is the best first automation. Add leak detectors and a smart power strip next. Keep manual backups and label every plug.
- Quarantine gear is a “must” upgrade for fish health.
- Buy a PAR meter rental before changing lights.
- Use dosing pumps only after two weeks of stable tests.
For disease prevention tools, see our quarantine setup checklist. It saves fish and protects your display.
This priority list keeps your first dollars on stability and oxygen. Then you add filtration and testing for control. Only then should you chase lighting and automation upgrades.
Sources: Instant Ocean Sea Salt Guide (product mixing instructions); Red Sea Reef Care Program (alkalinity, calcium, magnesium ranges); Randy Holmes-Farley, Reefkeeping Magazine articles on alkalinity and dosing fundamentals.
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