Reef tanks fail fast when something breaks. A simple plan turns panic into steps. This is our reef emergency plan for common disasters.
Build your emergency kit and checklist
Store a small kit near the tank. Keep it dry and labeled. Replace items every six months. Your goal is a 10-minute response time.
Start with power and water basics. Keep two 5-gallon buckets and a siphon hose. Add towels, nitrile gloves, and a flashlight. Include a surge protector and spare fuses.
Next, prep emergency water. Keep 10% to 20% of tank volume in mixed saltwater. Match salinity at 1.025 specific gravity. Heat it to 78°F before use.
- Battery air pump with extra batteries and airline tubing
- Ammonia badge plus liquid test kits for NH3, NO2, NO3, and alkalinity
- Spare heater sized at 3 to 5 watts per gallon
- Activated carbon and a media bag for fast toxin removal
- Super glue gel, reef epoxy, and a small frag rack
Print a one-page checklist. Tape it inside a cabinet door. Include your tank volume and target numbers. Link it to your reef tank maintenance schedule for updates.
Power loss and oxygen crash response
In a blackout, oxygen is the first threat. Fish can suffocate within hours. Corals also stress from low flow. Start aeration before you test anything.
Run a battery air pump with an airstone. Place it near the surface for splash. If you have a UPS, plug in one powerhead only. Aim it at the surface for ripples.
Manage temperature next. Most reefs do best at 77°F to 79°F. During winter outages, wrap the tank with blankets. In summer, float sealed ice packs for short periods.
- First 5 minutes: start air pump and surface agitation
- First 30 minutes: reduce feeding to zero and dim lights
- First 2 hours: check temperature every 30 minutes
- After power returns: restart gear slowly over 15 minutes
A common mistake is overfeeding after an outage. Bacteria may have slowed. That can spike ammonia. Follow your reef tank cycling guide rules for recovery feeding.
Leaks, toxins, and sudden parameter swings
Leaks are messy but manageable. First, cut power to pumps and heaters. Stop the water source. Move livestock only if the level drops near pump intakes.
Keep a marked line on your sump for normal level. A fast drop often means a return line issue. A fast rise often means a clogged overflow. Clear the blockage and restart with supervision.
Toxins can come from aerosols, rust, or dying animals. If fish gasp or corals slime, act fast. Run fresh carbon and increase aeration. Do a 20% water change within one hour.
Test key parameters after stabilizing. Target alkalinity 7.5 to 9.0 dKH. Keep calcium 400 to 450 ppm. Keep magnesium 1250 to 1400 ppm. If alkalinity drops more than 1 dKH in a day, pause dosing and investigate.
- Ammonia reading above 0.2 ppm: add aeration and do a 25% change
- Salinity swing above 0.002 SG: correct over 12 to 24 hours
- Heater stuck on: cool with fans and remove the heater
- Heater failed: add the spare and raise 1°F per hour
Keep a small quarantine box ready for emergencies. A 10-gallon tote works well. Use a seeded sponge filter if you have one. Review your quarantine for reef fish steps before you need them.
Sources: Bulk Reef Supply Investigates (power outage and oxygenation videos); Randy Holmes-Farley, Reefkeeping Magazine (alkalinity and chemistry articles); NOAA Coral Reef Conservation Program (temperature stress guidance).
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